Box has power, but fuse LED is out / Fuses are blown
If your box has power, but the LEDs next to the fuses are off, you may need to replace some fuses and check your power injection:
Check the Fuses
- Unplug your controller box and remove the lid.
- Plug the controller box back in but DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE WITH THE POWER ON.
- Check for a green light next to each fuse. If the green light next to a fuse is not on, that means the fuse has blown and will need to be replaced.
- Replace the fuse with a standard blade fuse of the same amp rating (can be purchased at Home Depot, Walmart, auto parts stores)
Things to note:
- If you have the 3 fuse version of our boards, they all share the same input so the total number on each fuse will add up to the total protection
(3x 5amp fuses = 15 amps)
- Always use the same rated fuses. These are here to protect your wiring from overheating. If you were to put in 3x 10amp fuses, it would have the ability to put 30 amps into your circuit without tripping. This could result in a fire so remember these fuses are there for safety.
Check Your Power Injection
If you are using a 150ft kit, you need to use both injection ports. If one injection port is not used, it will drop the protection by ⅓ so you will only have 10 amps before a fuse will blow. The power supply is rated for 12.6 amps so it could easily go over 10 amps. By using all three ports, it will have the 15 amps of protection which will cover the Power Supply.
If the fuse keeps tripping, then something might be wired incorrectly. Check each power injection point and splice to make sure there are no shorts and they are properly connected.
Things to note:
- The channels need to be balanced for power distribution, refer to our instructions page on where to inject power and which injection cable to help verify you have it spaced correctly so each channel will have the same load
- You can pull off the 3 ports and use a multimeter to look at the resistance between the Power and GND wire on the cable itself to see if there is anything that is shorting out. They are all connected downstream so the one that has the lowest resistance will be the spot you can start checking.
If nothing else works, Channel 1 (the one that the black data cable plugs into) can be replaced with a 7.5 amp fuse but please leave the other channels at 5 amps so we don’t go over 20 amps of protection combined. This is too much for any single wire to handle.
If you are still having issues, please contact us at Support@ShawTechLighting.com and let us know the steps you have completed and what you are seeing.
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